by J. Michael Wheeler
Food & Wine Best Chefs 2008
Each year, for the last 20 years, Food and Wine magazine has picked up-and-coming chefs and dubbed them Best New Chefs. In 1998 that list contained Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller; a pretty auspicious start. The July ’08 issue presents this year’s crop of chefs who have "been in charge of kitchens for less than five years." The article also includes each chef's easiest recipe. It's interesting to note that five of the best ten chefs emphasize local ingredients.
Here are the results from Food and Wine (July ’08):
The Food & Wine Ten
Jeremy Fox Ubuntu, Napa
Why He Won Because, in a restaurant attached to a yoga studio, he’s redefining the notion of vegetarian cooking with pristine ingredients from Ubuntu’s own garden. Recipe: Summer Radishes with Chèvre, Nori, and Smoked Salmon.*
Michael Psilakis Anthos, New York City
Why He Won Because he has ingeniously redefined Greek cooking in America. Recipe: Greek Grilled Scallop Sandwiches.
Jim Burke James, Philadelphia
Why He Won Because his sophisticated, northern Italian-influenced cooking celebrates local producers. “In Pennsylvania, we don’t have the longest growing season, so it makes you creative,” he says. Recipe: Chilled Cucumber Soup with Salt-Roasted Shrimp.*
Sue Zemanick Gautreau’s, New Orleans
Why She Won Because she has imbued a 25-year-old New Orleans restaurant with fresh energy, deftly adding modern European touches to a classic menu. Recipe: Chile-Lime Crab Salad with Tomato and Avocado.
Eric Warnstedt Hen of the Wood, Waterbury, VT
Why He Won Because he takes great advantage of Vermont’s farmers and cheesemakers for his terrific New American dishes. Recipe: Warm-Chanterelle-and-Berry Salad with Cheddar.*
Gerard Craft Niche, St. Louis
Why He Won Because, in a historic St. Louis neighborhood, he prepares a deceptively simple, drop-ded-delicious pork-oriented menu. Recipe: Smoky Pork Pappardelle.
Koren Grieveson Avec, Chicago
Why She Won Because the uncomplicated, Mediterranean-inspired dishes at her restaurant-cum-wine bar are so amazingly good. Recipe: Tangy Roasted Chicken Thighs with Artichoke Panzanella.
Ethan Stowell Union, Seattle
Why He Won Because, as a self-taught chef, he applies his exceptional home-cooking skills to Pacific Northwest-seafood and produce to create delicious, accessible dishes. Recipe: Mussels with Speck, Lemon and Oregano.*
Giuseppe Tentori Boka, Chicago
Why He Won Because every dish on his global menu has multiple components that work together brilliantly. Recipe: Quinoa Salad with Pickled Radishes and Feta.
Tim Cushman O Ya, Boston
Why He Won Because his wonderful, contemporary Japanese menu cleverly references his native New England. Recipe: Salmon Sashimi with Ginger and Hot Sesame Oil.*
*Emphasis on local ingredients.
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