by David Haley
Naked, Naked, Naked
A new trend gaining popularity in chardonnay wine production is the absence of oak: Naked Chard. To be sure this is a trend that is gaining momentum with wine producers throughout the world. The credit for this change rests with you, consumers who voice their preferences and the producers who respond to market drivers. Wines produced in this manner emphasize apple, pear, citrus and mineral qualities. Naked Chardonnays are lighter in body than oaked Chardonnay, easier to drink, and pair better with food. All good reasons to give them a swirl!
Let's examine how oak changes the character of Chardonnay to understand how the absence of oak can be a refreshing influence on the world’s most popular grape.
Chardonnay is a winemakers dream due to its ability to absorb manipulation and outside influences such as oak. In America, Chardonnay has been traditionally treated with oak fermentation and/or oak aging. The main benefit of oak aging is in flavor profile. Oak aging results in abundant tropical flavors, hints of butter, and a fuller mouth feel which are perceived as desirable by many consumers. Oak also helps to naturally stabilize and clarify wine.
So why the trend away from oak?
In today’s world less is more. Consumers want wines with character but without the heavy flavors. In white wine this trend can be seen with the amazing growth of Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, and other Unoaked wines. It’s now Chardonnay’s turn.
In this article we look at five examples of Unoaked Chardonnay from different regions of the world. They share some similarities but all are unique due to the varied soil and climactic conditions in which they are grown.
Brampton Chardonnay Unoaked 2006, South Africa (Stellenbosch)
Originally started as the second label of highly regarded Rustenberg winery in Stellenbosch these wines quickly developed a loyal following of their own. Brampton Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc deliver ripe ample fruit, balanced acidity and a clean crisp flavor profile.
For those who like trivia: Brampton's name pays tribute to champion Jersey bull Brampton Beacon Bloomer, who was imported from Canada by owners Peter and Pam Barlow to add vitality to the farm's prize-winning Jersey herd. No bull here – these are really good wines.
Brampton Chardonnay $10.00
Four Vines “Naked” Chardonnay Santa Barbara 2006
New Englanders make good wine! Four Vines partners Christian Tietje and Bill Grant hail from New England but settled on Paso Robles, California as home for wine operations. This area, located at a mid-point between San Francisco and Los Angeles, is home to some of California’s finest wines and boasts a laid back, fun attitude.
Fruit for the Four Vines Chardonnay is harvested from hilltop vineyards in Northern Santa Barbara’s Cat Canyon. Grapes are hand sorted and gently pressed and fermented in 100% stainless steel and left on the lees as long as possible. To maintain natural acidity the wine was not subject to malolactic fermentation. *See notes below. As a result, the nose is bright with crisp apple and pear laced with clove, mineral, and a hint of anise. On the palate, the Chardonnay exhibits crisp apple, white peach, and pear, finishing long with hints of citrus and mineral. "Naked" Chardonnay compliments food instead of competing with it. $13.00
Macon-Villages (Chardonnay) 2005 Louis Jadot
Maison Louis Jadot in Beaune, France dates back to 1859. A long history does not guarantee quality, but this firm has consistently made excellent wines for years. In an era when everything “new” is the rage it is comforting to revisit favorite producers who deliver value and consistency time and again.
Jadot Macon-Villages is an all time favorite for fun, easy drinking summer white. Our first greeting in the nose is a wonderful floral character that is backed up by a core of bright tropical fruits. This wine also exhibits a light butterscotch flavor that is very appealing. The finish is crisp and dry. Pair with cheese, fruit, and a couple of good friends on the patio! $11.00
Wishing Tree Chardonnay Unoaked 2006 (Australia)
This delicious wine hails from western Australia and is marketed by John Larchet of the Australian Premium Wine Collection. Wishing Tree Chardonnay receives consistently strong accolades for the quality it delivers at a fair price. Robert Parker rated this 2006 vintage 88 points and it delivers far above its $10.00 price tag. Try it soon!
Screaming Jack Unoaked Chardonnay, California 2005
Another superb value in non-oaked wine, Screaming Jack is a joint venture of Billington Imports and Tom Larson who founded the Sonoma Creek label of wines in the early 1990’s.
The concept behind Screaming Jack is to offer consumers great value with winemaking emphasis on soft, forward fruit. Grapes for Screaming Jack are sourced from the Santa Barbara and Carneros appellations which are both known for quality Chardonnay production.
The 2005 vintage offers ripe pineapple and melon fruit aromas. It’s easy drinking with bright acidity and a lingering finish. $11.00
Notes
Left on the lees simply means allowing the pressed grape juice to stay in contact with the sediment that results in the winemaking process. This contact results in greater complexity in the wine.Fermentation in stainless steel allows grape juice to retain a fresh, crisp character.
Malolactic conversion is a commonly used process in winemaking where malic acid is converted to lactic acid. Why is this necessary? Malic acid is tart and lactic acid is softer-tasting and more palatable. In production of unoaked white wines this practice is discouraged to preserve the crisp apple character and balanced acidity. Lactic acid is richer, more buttery and complements oak in wine production.
Feel free to share your experiences and thoughts about Unoaked Chardonnay and look for my next article on The Great Wide World of Shiraz, or is it Syrah?
-David Haley
As president of Haley Marketing Group, a New England based wine brokerage, David Haley travels to wine regions around the world to discover exceptional wine values. (He calls it work, but that’s debatable.) His background in wine spans sixteen years in the wholesale and wine import business with some of the most prestigious importers in America.
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