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Apr 29, 2010

The "Expert"

Wine About

by Eric Olson
Expand your wine worldSome time ago, I and some friends of mine in the wine business found ourselves at Mustards Grill in Napa Valley for dinner. Mustards was, and is, one of the most exclusive dining spots in all of California, and we found ourselves privileged to have a seat outside on a beautiful summer eve and looked forward to a fun experience. Well, when seated we noticed a certain attitude from our waiter and decided to act in kind. Having spent a good week traveling California vineyards and wineries we had noticed a certain air of superiority, albeit friendly, from many in the biz. When asked our reasons for being there we replied, with a calm demeanor, that we were "wine experts from back east." That got us the desired raised eyebrow. Upon returning to the table, the waiter had his manager in tow, loaded for bear, with a bottle in hand, unfortunately wrapped in a bag. Ooops. Busted. Sitting down with intro's, we reiterated our "wine expert" label, although, while casting a wary eye at the hidden bottle, not with as much bravado.

We were soon put to the test as the manager, as expected, challenged us to a blind tasting to see what we were made of. Wine poured all around, sipped, thought, with the following silent process: What it isn't was the best way to proceed. Not Pinot — too big. Not Cab — more acidic with cherry. Not Zin — less aggressive fruit and so on. Not to mention, we had just left Shafer Vineyards where he had begun experiments with the rare Sangiovese grape, and this fit. An Italian wine maker told me once that to make a Sangiovese blend with Cabernet you must not add more than 15% Cabernet or it would overpower the Sangiovese. Well, we had our answer: A California (what else at Mustards?) Sangiovese with 15% Cabernet. The managers jaw dropped to the table top. Exactly correct. A lot of handshakes and laughs, and needless to say, wine and food followed and we had our day in the sun in Napa Valley.

Salem Wine Imports in Salem, MA


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Mar 30, 2010

Curmudgeon's Easter Wine Choices

Wine About

by Eric Olson
Expand your wine worldCan I be a curmudgeon yet? I feel that way after last night's episode of "Chronicle" on TV. They featured a class being taught at Boston University that included wine and it's enjoyment, but the enjoyment part, or lack thereof, got to me a little later on.

In the episode, a woman looked intently into two glasses of wine, and said, "do you see a little more green tint in this one?” Some very serious students, with furrowed brows, stared into their glasses.

Realize that knowing more about wine could help increase your enjoyment, but the class brought up a Monty Pythonesque scene of a group of very serious people on Salem Common one spring day trying to decipher why it was so pleasant. Is it the dove's cooing, the salty tang in the air, the warmth from a rejuvenated sun? The blue sky? What makes a great day great? Everything.

Same holds true in a wine class: don't take it so seriously that you don't see the forest through the trees. You don't need a formal wine class to increase your knowledge, and you certainly don't need to be a "Master of Wine" to get full enjoyment. Lighten up. Find a laid back wine tasting like we have on Tuesdays. No furrowed brow's, just smiles, and you'll enjoy just as much as the "experts” without the pretense.

Some recommendations for this weekend’s Easter Dinners. If having lamb, then I highly suggest a French Bordeaux, from the left bank. The Chateau Aney, Haut Medoc would be perfect. A Spanish Mencia from Bierzo would work nicely such as the ‘07 Luna Beberide, or the wonderfully dry, earthy Bila Haut, from Chapoutier in the Roussillon region. You want to balance the richness of the lamb with either the tannins in the Aney, the acid in the Mencia, or the gritty dryness of the Bila Haut.

For the ham dinners a softer, fruitier red will do fine, such as the Pinot Noir from Brunel,or the J.P. Brun, Beaujolais.  For those who prefer a white with the ham, the fruity, tasty Saumur from the Loire valley would be a good match. Any way you slice it we hope your Sunday is as as pleasant as the weather is supposed to be. And don't waste time trying to decide why the day is so nice, or the wine for that matter. It just is.


Salem Wine Imports in Salem, MA


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Feb 27, 2010

Wine Tasting 101

Wine About

by Eric Olson
Expand your wine worldWell, it might stop raining some time soon here in New England, but in the meantime I have the perfect cure for cabin fever in February and March. Let’s do a bit of wine tasting. Drop into your favorite wine shop and try find a bottle of one of these wines: Luna Beberide, Mencia; Novecento Chianti Classico; or Ch. Fabas, Minervois. If you can’t get the exact bottle, ask your knowledgeable wine merchant for something close.

Now, take it home, build a fire in your fireplace, and put the wine in refrigerator for 10 minutes. Open and pour. Don't swirl just yet, you want to try the wine before you aerate it to see how it changes. Smell and sip and think: is it fruity, earthy, mineraly, acidic, aggressive or compliant? Now swirl for a minute or two, smell, and try again. Same fruit? Calmer, less forceful? Acid integrated a touch? What is the dominate interest in the wine, and is it balanced? In other words, do the fruit, acid, alcohol, and flavors balance each other, or does one dominate over the others? For instance, if you taste too much of the acid, then the wine needs more fruit (or rich food) to be balanced.

Take another sip and see if other flavors are showing themselves: coffee, vanilla, cherries, blackberries, leather? Is it opening up more as you oxygenate (swirl) more? Does the wine feel good in your mouth? Is the temperature correct? Around 60 degrees should do.

Temperature is hugely important in wine. Nothing over 68, please. Now warm the wine with your hands and see if it is more appealing or less. Mouth feel is often times overlooked, but a proper weight and structure should give you a pleasant feeling in the mouth; smooth or gritty, soft or hard, a wine should entice you to have more.

Feeling better yet? Look at the fire through the glass and really look at the color. Now, lean back, relax and let your particular bottle take you to the Bierzo region of Spain, the hills of Tuscany, or the warm countryside in France, and smile. If you've had a least half of the bottle and don't feel a lot better please return for a full refund. 

Have fun, this is not a serious project but a way to, every now and again, really think about that wine in your glass and appreciate it more. Where else does man and nature combine so beautifully? Especially on a rainy night.


Salem Wine Imports in Salem, MA


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Feb 19, 2010

Wine Worlds

Wine About

 by Eric Olson
Expand your wine worldThere's an old saying in the boat business that, "if it looks good, it is good."  Nowhere, I believe, is this more obvious that in my beautiful Piscataqua wherry that I've rowed these last 12 years around Salem Sound here in Massachusetts. As pretty a dory as there is and yes, she rows like a dream. Breakfast at the Driftwood in Marblehead, no problem, lunch on one of the Miserys in Salem Sound, sounds good (actually it doesn't sound good, but it is). My Piscataqua: form and function in perfect harmony.

In the wine business it's not so obvious. Marketing firms try to sell us on cute animal names, play on words, and "mommy's night out" nomenclature. Mass marketing for mass produced ordinary wines. I like the marketing done by small farmers gathered around the dinner table with family the members as the board members. Real wines produced as naturally as possible (with little intervention) from skills learned through the generations. What the season gives to grapes, the producer gives to us. Different, thank God, from year to year as determined by the elements.

Now we can say that "if it tastes good, it is good" as you are the only "expert" that matters. Lesson for today is just to vary your wines as you do your other main food groups. Experience next time, lets say the Mencia grape from Bierzo (you will like it), or the Monastrell from Jumilla (ditto), Spain.

To assist in expanding your wine horizons, ask your knowledgeable wine merchant to make up a sample case of 12 red wines from around the world: France, Argentina, Spain, Italy, and California (we do it for our own customers). It is a great way to experiment without too much risk.


Salem Wine Imports in Salem, MA


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Jan 28, 2010

"Hands-off" Wines

Wine About
Winery in the Barossa Valley 500

by Eric Olson
Just sitting at my computer and looking at all the very well made wines on our shelves. Not saying that it's because of me but, more appropriately, just better wine making generally.

The wines coming from Europe, beset by the falling dollar, are staying up with expectations due, I believe, with great overall quality. Many more options available also, as the smaller importing companies are looking everywhere for quality and wine makers that understand a hands off technique of wine making. Hands-off, meaning non interventionist — tend to the vineyard and the sorting table, then back off and let nature perform its magic. Let nature give you what the vintage will produce and leave the brand building to the venture capitalists, because what we really want is continued uniqueness in our glasses not sameness.

There is not a wine ever made that you and I would always want. The thrill of opening a bottle of wine is in our expectations of discovery and diversity: I want to taste the French earth, Italian air, Spanish sun and, Sonoma fruit. 

Some good examples are in the shop right now:
French earth? Alain Corcia, Bourgogne Pinot Noir: pretty, polished, near perfect. $14
Italian air? Erbaluce di Caluso: indigenous white grape with wild flowers, savory mineral finish. Discover this diversity. $16
Spanish sun? Camins del Priorat: Broad, rich, balanced. $26
Sonoma fruit? Stuhlmuller Chardonnay: lime, apples, elegant. $26

The Cotes du Rhones continue to be exceptional. They’re a perfect wine for winter stews, roasts and fireplaces.


Salem Wine Imports in Salem, MA


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Jan 22, 2010

Maine Sea Scallops

Ordinary Out of the

OOO by Kate Krukowski Gooding
Maine Sea Scallops with Tarragon and White Wine Sauce
Maine Sea Scallops with Tarragon and White Wine SauceIt is scallop season here in Maine and the scallop haul looks plentiful so far this year. I picked up fresh scallops this morning. I first went to my spice and herb cabinet and then to the wine cellar. As I rummaged through our whites I found this 2007 bottle of white from Kindred Wines composed of 37% Marsanne, 37% Roussane and 26% Viognier grapes. I felt this would be perfect and so delectable, and it was.

Ingredients
Serves 2-4

1 pound Maine Sea Scallops
1 tablespoon olive oil
Sea Salt and Fresh Pepper, to taste
1/3 cup chicken broth
1/3 cup white wine
½ lemon, juiced
1 large shallot, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
¼ cup butter
½ teaspoon tarragon, chopped

Directions

1. Preheat oven broiler. Cooking spray a 9 x9 baking dish.
2. Dry scallops, brush with olive oil and season with salt and black pepper. Place scallops in baking dish.
3. Combine chicken broth, white wine, lemon juice, garlic and shallots in a small skillet. Heat over medium heat until most of the liquid has been reduced. Stir in butter and tarragon.
4. Broil scallops 2 minutes per side or until scallops are opaque. Serve scallops hot with white wine sauce.

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Dec 08, 2009

Wine Sale at La Tour d'Argent

Wine About

by J. Michael Wheeler
La Tour d’Argent overlooks Notre Dame on the Left Bank of Paris Not the Bargain Basement
Just in time for the holidays, one of the most famous Parisian restaurants, La Tour d’Argent, is having something of a yard-sale. Well, a cellar-sale really. La Tour, as it is affectionately known, will be auctioning off 18,000 bottles from it’s historic wine cellar on December 7 and 8, 2009. For example, if you've got about $1800 there's a nice bottle of Corton, a red Burgundy, vintage 1895, that you can snatch up.

But don’t worry if that’s beyond your price range. There’s a 1983 Pétrus, a magnum, that will go for only about $1,350. And then there are the Premier Cru Bordeaux classics, Château Latour, Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild, Haut-Brion, Cheval Blanc and Château Margaux. Burgundies, which make up 60% of La Tour’s current cellar, to be auctioned will not include the big boys like La Tâche and Romanée Conti, but Meursault Clos de la Barre Lafon, Puligny Montrachet Referts Sauzet and Vosne Romanée Jayer.

Emptying out 18,000 bottles of wine from one’s cellar may seem like a lot, but for La Tour it is merely about 4% of the 450,000 bottle cellar! That cellar consists of 27 rooms that are seven stories below La Tour’s dining room.

La Tour d’Argent (http://www.tourdargent.com/) overlooks Notre Dame on the Left Bank of Paris at 15/17 quai de la Tournelle, 75005 Paris. À votre santé!


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Nov 18, 2009

Beaujolais Nouveau for T-Day

Wine About

by Eric Olson
Years ago we always looked forward to the arrival, just before Thanksgiving, of the Beaujolais Nouveau wines from France. Bottled and shipped almost immediately after being picked, these wines were fun, interesting, another reason to celebrate and highly anticipated. Success almost ruined the idea as more and more large shippers got on board and would ship anything that was red, some tasting more like colored water than wine. I've always liked the idea, however and this year sought out a small producer who neither chaptilize (adds sugar) or uses artificial yeasts, in other words "real wine".  Wild yeasts exist on the outside of grape skin and are a critical piece of the wine making puzzle. They are more difficult to handle than artificial yeasts but make much more interesting wines. The '09 vintage is excellent and, like all Beaujolais Nouveau vintages, cannot be delivered to any store until the Thursday preceding Thanksgiving. We all have an equal opportunity to discover the "vintage." If you've been part of a Nouveau celebration and came away unimpressed, try some made by small farmers who do it the old fashioned way. Fortuitously Beaujolais is an excellent choice with Turkey and all the trimmings.


Salem Wine Imports in Salem, MA


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Sep 16, 2009

Choosing Bordeaux Wines

Wine About

by Eric Olson
1994 MargauxWell, it's Tuesday evening about five o’clock in the early evening and as the temperature is going down outside, my feelings for Bordeaux go up inside. Haven't touched one all summer as I find them too aggressive in warmer weather but not so in the fall and winter. Just opened the newly arrived Ch. Haut-Gacherie, 2005 vintage and find it a nice "transition" Bordeaux. Certainly not too aggressive, but fairly mild with some modest tannins, and simple fruit and earth flavors. Good beginner wine if your interested in trying what I'm talking about for a modest $12.

The Bordeaux region is close to the Atlantic Ocean in the southwest section of France and produces an enormous amount of wine. The world's most famous wines, Latour, Lafite, Mouton, Margaux, Haut Brion, and Petrus to name a few, make up only a minuscule amount of what is produced and are out of most mortals reach. The good news: this vast ocean of wine produces many very fine affordable wines.

Bordeaux wines are, when made well, rich, layered, fruity, and very, very dry, with complex earth and mineral components that compliment a wide array of foods. They are made from predominately Cabernet Sauvignon grapes when grown on the left bank of the Gironde River, or Merlot grapes when grown on the right bank. A must for all serious wine drinkers, Bordeaux wines are the apex of drinking pleasure when served properly. But, with over 7000 chateaux and over 40 sub appellations, they are a wine student's nightmare. Some thoughts...

All Bordeaux must be made with only five grape varieties: the Cabernet grape dominating on the left bank (or Medoc side); on the right bank (St. Emilion, Pomeral and many other "lesser" appellations), Merlot is the main ingredient. It's takes a real expert to discern the right bank wines from the left, and so my point is, why bother? To search for a St. Emilion, for example, is not necessary. Vintage and price is much more important than appellation. If you want to spend $20 on a St. Emilion, fine, but you might be better off with a wine shop that can guide you to a better $20 Medoc or St. Julien. In other words, it should be a good Bordeaux you should seek, not any particular region over another. Vintages are important in Bordeaux, but as I said earlier they are sometimes self leveling (But What About Vintages?). You will pay less for the 2004 vintage than the highly acclaimed 2005, so the ‘04 may, in fact, be the better value.

On and on we can go but I do not want to confuse or scare you off. The best thing to do is visit your local wine shop and talk about the wines and taste some examples. It is much easier to talk about wine than to write about it. Especially after a few tastings.


Salem Wine Imports in Salem, MA


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Aug 27, 2009

But What About Vintages?

Wine About

by Eric Olson

Buying wine shouldn't be stressful. I realize that there is an awful lot of stuff you have to know to make informed choices about wine, and vintages probably scare more of you than anything else. What should you know about vintages, and should you really even care about them? Well, to be succinct, the more you know the better. But vintages sometimes are self-leveling: in other words, an inferior vintage of a wine will cost less than a good vintage of the same wine. So might you get a decent value buying a better wine in a lesser year? Hopefully.

We can take off a little vintage pressure for California wines by saying, "don't worry about vintages in California."  A very argumentative statement, but with very few exceptions, very true. California weather is not as variable as most European countries, so unless you like to worry, don't worry.

Continue reading "But What About Vintages?" »