Dancing Spoon

Farm to Fork New England

Very Local Eating

by J. Michael Wheeler
Know Your Farmer
You never know where you might eat that eight-course meal; it might be in a barn, a pasture, a micro-creamery, an heirloom apple orchard or even at a dairy. What you will be assured of, at a New England Farm 2 Fork Project, is that Chef Sebastian Carosi and his band of roving rural culinary visionaries will wow you with their on farm dinners, luncheons, brunches, and other culinary events throughout the different New England seasons.

The New England Farm 2 Fork Project is an eco-gastronomic organization that supports a biodiverse, sustainable food supply, local producers, heritage food-ways, and the pleasures that surround the American kitchen and table. They work closely with farmers and producers to raise local food supply awareness, and to support sustainable agriculture and economic development throughout the Northeast.

Our destiny and mission is to serve the best local, sustainably produced artisan ingredients and to treat them with respect and simplicity in our cuisine...This means using as much of a products resources as possible, be it the greens from garden grown organic heirloom beets, or the livers and gizzards of pastured barnyard heritage chickens...Our deep-rooted regional influences have shaped and continue to shape New England Farm Cuisine and inspire our cooking and food on a daily basis. — Chef Sebastian Carosi

The project is the brainchild of Chef Sebastian Carosi, an admitted local foods junkie, turophile, and Slow Food  practitioner. Chef Carosi wholeheartedly supports responsible agricultural methods, exposes diners to local food resources, and is cultivating a more conscientious food culture throughout New England.

What the Indians Ate Dinner, on May 29th & 30th, is the next New England Farm 2 Fork Project event. Here’s what’s on the menu:

Heirloom appaloosa bean, smokehouse ham hock and American snapping turtle soup, shagbark hickory cured steelhead with red alder smoked sea salt and crushed wild ramps, ossipee mountain cherry wood smoked trout cakes with misickquatash, air dried Maine raised red deer with Perkins Cove juniper berries, corn smut honey, fried parsnips and foraged wild greens, smoked squash and wild maine moose meat pie, indian fry bread ‘taco’ with braised black bear, shaved lettuce, smoked pepper sauce and pickled sunflower seeds, sinzibukwud cured magret duck breast with suppawn, crushed heirloom crane-berries and swamp cabbage.

And for desert? Abenaki Indian pudding with heirloom local rhubarb jam. Of course.

Wow.
Upcoming Events: A Shaker Supper in the Orchard, A Gravenstein cider press & dinner, and National Moldy Cheese Day & A Made in New England Cheese Social. Keep up on their Schedule. 

The New England Farm 2 Fork Project

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Got Better Tasting Milk?

Pastures Greener

by J. Michael Wheeler
Got Better Tasting Milk?
Great story/article on NPR Got (Good) Milk? Ask The Dairy Evangelist by John Burnett about  "the Che Guevara of the American dairy industry." Warren Taylor owns and runs Snowville Creamery, and he's trying to make milk the way it was made 40 years ago, when, he insists, it tasted better.

"I built Snowville Creamery to prove to the American dairy industry that the reason our children have had a 30-year continuous decline in their consumption of milk is not entirely Coke and Pepsi's fault, but because the dairy industry has been delivering a continuously declining quality of milk, in terms of its freshness and taste," Taylor says.

Taylor sells most of his milk within 48 hours, he doesn't homogenize it, and his milk is pasteurized at a lower temperature — 165 degrees. The industry standard is 175 degrees, which Taylor believes diminishes taste. Today, the popular "ultrahigh temperature" or "ultrapasteurized" milk is sterilized at 280 degrees, a process that trades flavor for long-distance marketing and long shelf life.

Listen to the Morning Edition Story Got (Good) Milk? Ask The Dairy Evangelist

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Keep Veggies Colorful

Tips Tasty

by Anna Tourkakis
How to Keep Color, Texture, and Nutrients in Cooked Vegetables
Fresh vegetables are the foundation of both nutrition and exceptional meals. They provide our bodies with valuable vitamins and minerals and add color and texture to our meals. Bright beautiful greens, reds, oranges, purples, and yellows are a taste-treat for the eyes and their crunchy texture adds interest to every bite. The basic guidelines for cooking vegetables are: quick cooking, minimum water, and use of a lid. These simple guides will help retain color, texture, and nutrients.

The common methods for cooking vegetables, boiling, steaming, stir-frying and sautéing are all suitable for quick cooking. When boiling vegetables the first questions are always, “how much water to use,” and “should I cover the pot?” Vegetables are added to just enough boiling water to cover them. Cook them to fork-tender. The use of a lid depends on the flavor of the vegetables. Mild flavored vegetables such as carrots, corn, winter squash and potatoes should be cooked with the lid on. Stronger flavored vegetables such as green beans, broccoli and zucchini are best cooked without a lid which allows volatile compounds to escape. These last veggies should be cooked in water one-half to one inch above the vegetables. This dilutes the volatile compounds and prevents discoloration. 

In steaming, stir-frying and sautéing methods, vegetables should be cut to a uniform small size for quick, even cooking. Typically, stir-fry vegetables are cut into thin strips. Sautéing is suitable for tender or thinly sliced vegetables. Steaming is best for retaining water soluble vitamins regardless of a longer cooking time. 

These basic procedures ensure bright colored and crunchy textured vegetables with its many nutrients retained.

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Anna Q. Tourkakis, DTR, MPA is a nutritional counselor. She teaches nutrition to food service professionals at North Shore Community College and does cooking demonstrations and healthy eating related presentations. Anna Q. Tourkakis, DTR, MPA is a nutritional counselor. She teaches nutrition to food service professionals at North Shore Community College and does cooking demonstrations and healthy eating related presentations.

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Seafood Summit 2010: Paris

Seafood Sustainable

by J. Michael Wheeler
Seafood Summit 2010:
Challenging Assumptions in a Changing World
I can't think of a better place to challenge assumptions in a changing world than Paris. The Seafood Summit 2010, is to be held in Paris, France, from January 31 - February 2, 2010. The Seafood Choices Alliance explains:

Seafood Summit brings together global representatives from the seafood industry and conservation community for in-depth discussions, presentations and networking with the goal of making the seafood marketplace environmentally, socially and economically sustainable.

While many industry events offer companies networking opportunities to showcase their products and services, Seafood Summit is different. It is the only venue that connects large and small companies from a diverse array of industries with leaders from the conservation community to bridge the gap between the latest science and the reality of the seafood marketplace. Summit attendees include international representatives with vested interest in the seafood industry, including: fishermen, fish farmers, wholesalers, distributors, retailers, food professionals (chefs, restaurateurs), conservation organizations, academic scientists, media, and policy makers.

Information about Seafood Summit 2010 will be updated regularly. For further questions, contact Seafood Summit. There are discounts for early registration. Discounts for early registration available until 30 November 2009.

Seafood Choices Alliance is an international program that provides leadership and creates opportunities for change across the seafood industry and ocean conservation community. Founded in the United States in 2001, Seafood Choices helps the seafood industry— from fishermen and fish farmers to processors, distributors, retailers, restaurants, and food service providers —to make the seafood marketplace environmentally, economically and socially sustainable.

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Fruit Trees of Your Labor

Green Be

by J. Michael Wheeler
Plant 18 Billion Trees
What better way to help save the planet than by eating the fruits of your labor. How? By becoming a supporter of the Fruit Tree Planting Foundation. Their primary mission is to plant and help others plant a collective total of 18 billion fruit trees across the world (approximately 3 for every person alive) and encourage their growth under organic standards.

FTPF provides support, resources, and guidance for those interested in planting fruit trees and spearheads a variety of planting programs. These programs are aimed at enriching the environment, providing nutritious food sources for wild and rescued animals, and improving human health by bringing delicious, fresh, locally grown raw fruits and vegetables of the highest quality into the lives of all people.

Our primary goal is to plant trees that yield edible fruits, nuts, leaves, or roots—thus spreading life-sustaining ecological diversity throughout the world. Fruit trees will be planted alongside other soil-building flora, native and medicinal trees and shrubs, hardwoods, and plants that contribute to sustainability. As we plant, we bring vibrant health to the community by making delicious, fresh local fruits and vegetables accessible. Plantings are designed to follow the contours of the land, creating swales to guide water back into the earth and address erosion issues, and replenish organic matter in the soil which is so critical to the core health of the planet.

Start in Your Own Backyard
The ideal time to plant trees is during the dormant season for bare root trees and during the early spring or fall for containerized trees, when weather conditions are cool, allowing trees to get their roots well established before the summer heat. Please keep in mind that well cared for trees may be planted in just about any month where conditions allow (i.e. the ground is not frozen), as long as the best-available establishment practices are carefully followed, so do not feel limited. Preparing the tree planting site properly with good maintenance and care practices will ensure that the tree experiences reduced transplant shock and allow it to thrive. Please follow these steps carefully so that your tree will establish its roots quickly and develop vigorous growth. And remember, “It's better to plant a $100 tree in a $200 hole than to plant a $200 tree in a $100 hole.” Planting Containerized Tree Factsheet

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Clove, Mint, Thyme: Killers All

Green Be

They are tasty. They may be killers. At least to bugs. The Sundance Channel's blog SUNfiltered tells us that a group of Canadian scientists are researching the insecticidal value of spices such as rosemary, thyme, clove, and mint.

In a presentation at the American Chemical Society, the University of British Columbia’s Murray Isman noted several advantages to pesticides based on essential oils from these plants: they don’t require extensive regulatory approval; insects are less likely to evolve resistance; they’re safe for farm workers.

Isman did note that his team hasn’t quite discovered the “Holy Grail” of natural pesticides: they don’t work as well on pests like caterpillars, grasshoppers, and beetles. 

Full post at Spices that kill, August 17th, 2009 by Jeff McIntire-Strasburg

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The Food of a Younger Land: A Portrait of American Food--Before the National Highway System, Before Chain Restaurants, and Before Frozen Food, When the Nation's Food Was Seasonal

Award-winning New York Times–bestselling author Mark Kurlansky takes us back to the food and eating habits of a younger America: Before the national highway system brought the country closer together; before chain restaurants imposed uniformity and low quality; and before the Frigidaire meant frozen food in mass quantities, the nation’s food was seasonal, regional, and traditional. It helped form the distinct character, attitudes, and customs of those who ate it.

Click here to buy The Food of a Younger Land: A Portrait of American Food--Before the National Highway System, Before Chain Restaurants, and Before Frozen Food, When the Nation's Food Was Seasonal

Hand selected books for foodes are at Foodie's Emporium! Click here.

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Monaco's Bluefin Tuna Ban

Seafood Sustainable

by J. Michael Wheeler
Country Goes Bluefin-Free
Seafood Choices Alliance reports that the whole country of Monaco has gone bluefin-free to help protect the troubled tuna species. The fish will no longer be on menus or for sale in Monaco's shops and restaurants. Monaco's transition to a bluefin-free territory is especially significant not only because it is the first territory in the world to take this step but also because the principality has a long tradition of fishing and eating bluefin tuna. This pioneering move by Monaco comes at a time of growing international support for bluefin to be listed as an endangered species when the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) meets early next year in Doha, Qatar.

In France, at the end of 2007, Auchan Group decided to stop selling bluefin tuna in all its stores, as well as in its Atac and Simply Market brands. In 2009, after various years of progressive reduction, Carrefour has announced it would not market Mediterranean bluefin tuna in Europe anymore.

Seafood Choices Alliance is an international program that provides leadership and creates opportunities for change across the seafood industry and ocean conservation community. Founded in the United States in 2001, Seafood Choices helps the seafood industry— from fishermen and fish farmers to processors, distributors, retailers, restaurants, and food service providers —to make the seafood marketplace environmentally, economically and socially sustainable.  Info Seafood Choices Alliance

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Bottomfeeder: How to Eat Ethically in a World of Vanishing Seafood
Dividing his sensibilities between Epicureanism and ethics, Taras Grescoe set out on a nine-month, worldwide search for a delicious—and humane—plate of seafood. What he discovered shocked him. From North American Red Lobsters to fish farms and research centers in China, Bottomfeeder takes readers on an illuminating tour through the $55-billion-dollar-a-year seafood industry. Grescoe examines how out-of-control pollution, unregulated fishing practices, and climate change affect what ends up on our plate. More than a screed against a multibillion-dollar industry, however, this is also a balanced and practical guide to eating, as Grescoe explains to readers which fish are best for our environment, our seas, and our bodies.

At once entertaining and illuminating, Bottomfeeder is a thoroughly enjoyable look at the world’s cuisines and an examination of the fishing and farming practices we too easily take for granted.

Hand selected books for foodes are at Foodie's Emporium! Click here.

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Guarded Secrets of Food, Inc.

Food Factory

by J. Michael Wheeler
Where Does Food Come From?
"From the store," most kids answer. They are, of course, wrong. Most food comes from the factory. On the PBS program NOW, (Food, Inc.Behind the food we love—Secrets that giant food companies don't want you to know. Week of 6.5.09) David Brancaccio talks with filmmaker Robert Kenner, the director of "Food, Inc." What goes into the production, packaging, and sales of our foods?

"Food, Inc." takes a hard look at the secretive and surprising journey food takes on the way from processing plants to our dinner tables. The two discuss why contemporary food processing secrets are so closely guarded, their impact on our health, and another surprising fact: how consumers are actually empowered to make a difference.

Here's the trailer for Food, Inc.

Why is factory food so cheap? And is the cost at the supermarket or fast food joint the real cost? How does it affect our personal health and the health of the nation? The modern supermarket has, on average, 47,000 products! Food, Inc. Behind the food we love—Secrets that giant food companies don't want you to know. Watch NOW's David Brancaccio talks with filmmaker Robert Kenner, director of Food, Inc. on PBS.org

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The Food of a Younger Land: A Portrait of American Food--Before the National Highway System, Before Chain Restaurants, and Before Frozen Food, When the Nation's Food Was Seasonal

Award-winning New York Times–bestselling author Mark Kurlansky takes us back to the food and eating habits of a younger America: Before the national highway system brought the country closer together; before chain restaurants imposed uniformity and low quality; and before the Frigidaire meant frozen food in mass quantities, the nation’s food was seasonal, regional, and traditional. It helped form the distinct character, attitudes, and customs of those who ate it.

Click here to buy The Food of a Younger Land: A Portrait of American Food--Before the National Highway System, Before Chain Restaurants, and Before Frozen Food, When the Nation's Food Was Seasonal

Hand selected books for foodes are at Foodie's Emporium! Click here.

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Grillin' Basics Part Two

Tips Grilling

 by J. Michael Wheeler
Grill Greener
In L.A. where I grew up, it was always grilling season. Here in New England it isn't. (There are exceptions: see Shep's Winter Grilled Turkey.) So when the last of the snow is gone and any bit of vegetation merely thinks the word sprout, we break out the grillin' gear. This year we're also concerned with grilling greener. How do you lessen your carbon (bare)footprint? Here are a few ideas and some links for more info:

• Gas grills have lower emissions than charcoal or electric grills. A gas grill emits about half as much CO2 as charcoal grills and about one-third as much as an electric grill.

• Use sustainable-farmed charcoal or chips. If you do use a charcoal grill, the Forest Stewardship Council certifies producers that follow good resource management.

• Avoid lighter fluid which releases Volatile Organic Compounds. VOCs are hazardous to health. Use a chimney starter instead.
Check out these Grill Greener links: The Sundance Channel's The Green Blog and Treehugger How to Grill Green.

Tips: Grilling with Cedar Planks
Using wooden planks for grilling adds moisture and flavor to your grilled food. Grill with the lid closed: it's the best of both worlds, steaming and grilling combined. Turn thick pieces of fish and chicken. Thinner cuts like baby red snapper don't need to be turned during grilling. Using a cedar plank will take a little longer than regular grilling.

You can purchase cedar planks that are sold for specifically for grilling, (like the Camerons Products Cedar Planks pictured here) or you can go to your local lumberyard and buy untreated cedar planks. You can buy them as 1 x 4 inch planks in varying lengths. Ask to have them cut it into 12" lengths, which would handle two or three pounds of fish or chicken.

Soak the planks in water for one hour or longer before grilling. When the grill is hot, put the plank on the grill, smooth side down and char. Turn the wood over and then place fish or chicken on top to cook. The planks maybe reused.

Buy cedar planks for grilling. Click here.

Easier Grilling
Time to uncover the grill, find the super-long tongs, and fill the beer tub with ice, beer, and maybe a nice Spanish Albarino: it's grilling season. And while we can all get over-the-top with complicated, time-consuming preparations and fussy ingredients, sometimes keep it simple is just the way to go.

Thin is In Grill thin cuts of marinated meat. Marinating starts the cooking process and because the meat is so thin, it cooks quickly.

Organic Timers Grill foods that tell you when they're ready. It's easy to know when most shellfish is done: Shrimp curl and turn pink, and clams open.

No Fuss Foods Grill foods that are hard to under- or overcook. Salmon is great served rare or medium.

Common Cooking Temps If all the ingredients in a meal cook over the same temperature, then you can grill them all simultaneously.

Read more grilling articles, Click here.

Grilling Recipes
We've got some very tasty summer recipes at Dancing Spoon Magazine. Try Kate Gooding's Smoked Duck in a Raspberry Sauce is from her new Dancing Spoon column Out of the Ordinary. Gloria Bakst brings us Black Cod or Sable Grilled in Miso Marinade and Nori Topped Summer Salad an inventive, refreshing salad using a world of ingredients.
Find more grilling recipes, Click here.

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Weber 22-1/2-Inch One-Touch Gold Charcoal Grill, Blue.
Qualifies for FREE SHIPPING!

Weber 22-1/2-Inch One-Touch Gold Charcoal Grill
Weber Gold Series, 22-1/2" Dark Blue 1 Touch Charcoal Kettle Grill, Heavy Gauge Porcelain Enameled Steel Lid & Bowl, High Capacity No Rust Ash Catcher, Patented 1 Touch Cleaning System, Heat Resistant Nylon Handles On Lid & Bowl, Hinged Cooking Grate, 10 Year Limited Warranty.

• Charcoal grill with heavy-gauge porcelain enamel to prevent rust
• Nickel-plated cooking grate includes 2 hinged side openings for easy re-fueling
• Tripod base, nylon handles, and all-weather wheels provide easy maneuvering
• One-Touch stainless-steel cleaning system; removable high-capacity ash catcher
• Measures approximately 23 by 27 by 35 inches; 10-year limited warranty

Hand selected grills and grill accessories are at Foodie's Emporium!
Click here.

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Fresh, Really Fresh, Eggs

Trends Food

by J. Michael Wheeler
The Hip Egg
In case you hadn't heard, the chicken coop is what's new.  Kathy Lohr (Backyard Coops Make Chicks Chic, All Things Considered, May 21, 2009) reports that “Chickens aren't just for farms anymore. That's right — urban hens are hip. Across the country, city dwellers — attracted by the idea of having fresh eggs, a new hobby or even unique pets — are keeping flocks.”

Chicks And The City
The backyard chicken movement is catching on, thanks no doubt to the variety of resources for people who want to learn more about keeping chickens in their backyards. There are Web sites, coop tours, and in Atlanta, there's even a class called "Chicks and the City." The class, offered through a community garden's education program, teaches everything would-be urban chicken farmers need to know.

Some cities don't allow residents to keep chickens, because they worry about the noise, the smell and the rodents that are attracted to the feed. And, of course, there are those who say they don't want chickens next door. Yet many are taking another look at the idea.

From how-to to where-not, Lohr's story makes great listening. Click here to Listen.

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The Food of a Younger Land: A Portrait of American Food--Before the National Highway System, Before Chain Restaurants, and Before Frozen Food, When the Nation's Food Was Seasonal

Award-winning New York Times–bestselling author Mark Kurlansky takes us back to the food and eating habits of a younger America: Before the national highway system brought the country closer together; before chain restaurants imposed uniformity and low quality; and before the Frigidaire meant frozen food in mass quantities, the nation’s food was seasonal, regional, and traditional. It helped form the distinct character, attitudes, and customs of those who ate it.

Click here to buy The Food of a Younger Land: A Portrait of American Food--Before the National Highway System, Before Chain Restaurants, and Before Frozen Food, When the Nation's Food Was Seasonal

Hand selected books for foodes are at Foodie's Emporium! Click here.

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